Sep 252014

Here is the entree that was demonstrated at the New Orleans Cooking Experience on Tuesday. You can substitute a large shrimp in place of the lobster tail. The sauce for this dish was created for a visit for then vice President Spiro Agnew.

6 Speckled Trout filets (5oz)

6 Baby Lobster Tails (1 1/2 oz out of shell)

3/4 cup White Wine

1/4 pound melted Butter

Salt and White Pepper to taste

1 Recipe of Sauce a la Neige

Fold trout filet around lobster tail. Season with salt and pepper. Place in buttered pan. Add the wine and brush fish with butter. Cover.

Bake in medium oven for about 15 or 20 minutes until it has cooked through.

Sauce a la Neige

1 Egg

1 Egg White

1 tablespoon Taragon Vinegar

Salt, Red and White Pepper to taste

1 1/2 pounds boiling hot Butter

Place first four ingredients in blender. On medium speed, slowly drip in butter (drop by drop). You can add the butter a little faster as the sauce makes emulsion and thickens slightly. Do not reheat.

Will stay homogenized for about two to three hours.


Sep 222014

The New Orleans Cooking Experience is one of many cooking schools for people to learn the secrets of classic New Orleans Cajun & Creole cuisine. Tomorrow, they are doing their first of Fall’s “Lost New Orleans Restaurants” series. They will be featuring recipes for LeRuth’s. Here is one of the dishes they will be demonstrating.

2 cello Bags fresh Spinach (wash well and dry, remove heavy stems)

Step One

1/3 cup Bacon Drippings

2 tablespoons Olive Oil

1/4 cup chopped Shallots

Step Two

1/4 cup Tarragon Vinegar

2 tablespoons Creole or Dijon Mustard

1 tablespoon Sugar

1 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce

1 cup thinly slices fresh Mushrooms

2/3 cup crisp Bacon, chopped

Fresh ground Black Pepper and Salt to taste

4 tablespoons Vodka or Brandy

Sauté ingredients in step one. Add all ingredients except Vodka ot Brandy in step two. Stir and heat. Flambe Vodka or Brandy and when flames lower, stir sauce into fresh spinach. Turn pan upside down over spinach for 2 minutes to wit spinach slightly. Toss well and serve with quartered hard boiled eggs as garnish. Serves 4


Sep 182014

We had a couple of cool days this past week. Duck hunting season is just around the corner. Here is a wonderful duck recipe. It uses one of my favorite ingredients, cane syrup. Of course, I only use Steen’s.

For the Duck

1 5 pound Duckling

1 Onion, quartered

1 medium Orange (or Satsuma, a Louisiana madarin), zested (reserving the zest), quartered, and pips discarded

1 teaspoon chopped fresh Sage

1 teaspoon chopped fresh Thyme

1 teaspoon Salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground Black Pepper

For the Orange Sauce

2 cups fresh-squeezed Orange or Satsuma juice

1 cup Cane Vinegar or Apple Cider Vinegar

2 medium Shallots, minced

1/4 cup Cane Syrup

2 cups Chicken Stock

2 tablespoons Butter, softened

Prepare the Duck

Rinse the duckling under running water, pat it dry, and trim away some of the excess fat around the cavity. Stuff the bird with the onion and orange quarters and tie the legs close with string.

In a small bowl, mix together the orange zest, sage, thyme, salt, and black pepper. Prick the skin lightly all over and rub generously with the herb mixture. Set the duckling aside at room temperature for 1 hour or refrigerate overnight.

Place a 13×9 inch roasting pan in the oven. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Place the duckling, breast side up, in the preheated roasting pan and roast for 30 minutes. Reduce the heat to 400 degrees. Turn the duckling over, baste, and roast for another 30 minutes. Turn the duckling so it is breast side up again, baste and roast for another 30 minutes, or until the skin is crisp and juices run clear when you prick the thigh. Remove from the heat and let rest for 10 minutes.

Begin the sauce as soon as the duck is in the oven

Making the Orange Cany-Syrup Sauce

In a small saucepan, bring to a boil the orange juice, vinegar, and shallots. Reduce the heat to a simmer until the liquid is reduced to about 1 cup and whisk in the cane syrup. Pour half over the mixture into a small bowl, reserving it for basting the duckling.

In another saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook until the stock is reduced to about 1/2 cup. Whisk in remaining half of the juice mixture and simmer for about 7 minutes, or until slightly syrupy.

Whisk in the butter, a tablespoon at a time, until you have a light creamy sauce. Taste for seasoning and add a little more salt if necessary. The sauce should be balanced between sweet and tart. If too tart, add a little more syrup. Set aside while the duckling finshes roasting.

Serve the duckling whole or remove the breast and legs, serving the breast meat sliced and the legs whole. Spoon the orange sauce over the duckling or serve warm on the side.


Sep 152014

IMG_0837[1]Last night, I was trying to come up with a new way to cook frog legs. So, I cooked them in the same sauce as BBQ Shrimp. They tasted great.

3 pounds Frog Legs (you will have to cut the pairs in half with a scissors)

1 ½ pound Butter (6 sticks)

1 ½ cups Olive Oil

8 Tablespoons Garlic, Chopped

2 Tablespoons Basil Leaves (Dry)

4 teaspoons Salt

3 teaspoons Lemon Juice

2 Tablespoons Worcestershire Sauce

4 Tablespoons Ground Black Pepper

2 teaspoons Oregano (Dry)

2 teaspoons Thyme (Dry)

2 teaspoons BBQ Seasoning

1 Tablespoon Creole Seasoning



Melt butter in Olive Oil in a large pot. Combine all other ingredients, except Frog legs, and cook for 5 minutes. Add the Frog Legs and cook on stovetop on Medium High Heat for 10 minutes. Serve in bowls with plenty of French bread to sop up the sauce.



Sep 112014

Louisiana Kitchen and Culture is the best magazine representing Louisiana food available. The Publisher, Susan Ford, works hard at promoting Louisana’s Food and Culture. Every week, she sends out a newsletter with 3 recipes. I have been fortunate to have had recipes published. Go to the website and sign up for Susan’s weekly newsletter. You will not be disappointed.

  • 10-12 cups ½-inch bread cubes, plus 2 cups finely ground fresh bread crumbs (use a food processor) from a couple loaves of dense, crusty Italian or French bread
  • 3 tablespoons Italian seasoning, divided
  • 1 tablespoon plus ¾ teaspoon salt, divided
  • 2½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper, divided
  • 2 teaspoons fennel seeds, minced
  • 1½ teaspoons finely grated orange zest
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (about 4 pounds), trimmed, rinsed, and patted dry
  • 4 large split bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts (about 4 pounds), protruding rib bones and excess fat trimmed, rinsed, patted dry, and halved crosswise
  • 1 pound bulk Italian sausage or 1 pound links, casings removed
  • 2 medium onions, chopped (about 2 cups)
  • 3 medium celery stalks, chopped (about 1 cup)
  • 1½ cups golden raisins or finely chopped dried Turkish apricots
  • ½ cup minced fresh parsley
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1 quart chicken broth

Spread bread cubes in a single layer on a large baking sheet and spread bread crumbs on a separate baking sheet; let dry for several hours or overnight.

Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position; heat oven to 400 degrees. Bake bread cubes until golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes. (Do not toast crumbs.) Remove from oven and reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees.

Meanwhile, mix 2 tablespoons Italian seasoning, 1 tablespoon salt, 2 teaspoons pepper, fennel, orange zest, and oil in a small bowl. Smear mixture over both sides of each piece of chicken.

Heat a large heavy roasting pan over two burners on medium-high heat. When wisps of smoke start to rise from pan, add chicken in 2 batches (breasts skin side down). Cook until skin is well browned (3 to 4 minutes), turn, and cook until chicken breasts lose their raw color on remaining side and skin on thighs is well browned, another couple of minutes. Remove from pan and set aside.

Add sausage to roasting pan and fry, stirring frequently to break it up, until it loses its raw color, about 5 minutes. Add onions and celery to pan and continue to cook until vegetables are •soft, 7 to 8 minutes. In a large bowl, mix bread cubes, bread crumbs, sausage mixture, raisins or apricots, parsley, remaining 1 tablespoon Italian seasoning, remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Whisk eggs into broth in a medium howl and pour over stuffing ingredients. Toss to coat and let stand for t0 minutes so bread absorbs broth.

Turn stuffing into unwashed roasting pan. Top with chicken, skin side up, and bake until attractively brown and chicken is fully cooked, about 45 minutes. Remove from oxen and let stand for 10 minutes before serving.


Sep 082014

In my last post, I mentioned that one of Toney’s specials was Spaghetti au Daube. Here is a recipe for that old New Orleans classic that is hard to find on menus today.

1 (4 pound) Beef boneless Rump or boneless Chuck Roast

4 cloves Garlic, halved


Black Pepper

6 tablespoons Vegetable Oil

¼ cup All-purpose Flour

1 ½ cups chopped Onions

1 cup chopped Bell Peppers

2 cups chopped fresh or canned Tomatoes

½ cup chopped Parsley

2 cups Beef Stock

Hot cooked Rice or Spaghetti for serving

Make 8 slits in the roast and insert half garlic clove in each. Salt and pepper roast.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a Dutch oven or another heavy pot with a lid and brown the roast well on both sides. Remove the meat and set aside.

Add the remaining ¼ cup of oil and the flour to the pot and stir over medium heat for 15-20 minutes to make a medium-dark roux. Add the onions and sauté until they begin to brown. Add the bell pepper, tomatoes, parsley, and stock, stir, then add the roast to the pot. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer over low heat for 1 ½ hours. Check often and add more stock as needed. Slice the raost and serve with rice or spaghetti.


Sep 042014

Toney’s was the Italian restaurant in the French Quarter from 1936 to 1990. Anthony Bonomolo founded the restaurant during the depression. His Italian food was very simple. It main ingredient was his New Orleans “red gravy.” It could be found with meatballs, Italian sausage, lasagna, spaghetti with daube(sliced roast beef in the red sauce), and this dish, the stuffed macaroni. Anthony’s grandson, Jay Bonomolo took over in the 1980’s. By then, the French Quarter had changed over to tourism. In 1990, Toney’s moved to Metairie. It only lasted 3 more years, closing for good in 1993.

This recipe is taken from the Lost Restaurants of New Orleans


2 28oz. cans Tomato Paste

1 teaspoon Salt

¼ teaspoon Black Pepper


1 tablespoon Olive Oil

1 ½ lbs ground Round

½ lb ground Pork

1-2 tablespoons Water

1 medium Onion, chopped

1 Egg, beaten

½ cup grated Parmesan Cheese

1 cup plain Breadcrumbs

½ bunch flat-leaf Parsley, leaves only, chopped

1 tablespoon chopped Garlic

1 teaspoon Salt

¼ teaspoon Black Pepper

2 8oz boxes Pasta Shells, Manicotti Sheets, or large Pasta Tubes

2 tablespoons Olive Oil

½ cup grated Parmesan Cheese

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Make the sauce first. (or use your own recipe.) Pour the tomato puree into a large saucepan over medium-low heat. When it comes to a boil, lower to a simmer. Add the salt and pepper.

Simmer the sauce, covered, stirring every 20 minutes or so (and scraping the bottom as you do), for 6 hours. Adjust the salt and pepper to taste. (No kidding-this is how they made the basic sauce at Toney’s.)

To make the stuffing, heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat, and add the ground round and ground pork. Add the water and cook, using a kitchen fork to stir the meat and keep it from clumping up.

When the ground meat is completely browned, drain and excess fat from the saucepan. Lower the heat to the lowest possible.

Add all the other stuffing ingredients. Stir to blend, everything uniformly. Cook for 20 minutes, stirring now and then. Remove from heat and allow to cool. (You may do it up to this point and refrigerate.)

Cook the pasta until al dente (soft but still firm). Drain. In the same pot, cover the pasta with cold water and add 2 tablespoons olive oil. Set Aside.

Ladle about ½ cup sauce in each of two 9”x11”x3” casserole dishes. With clean hands, scoop up enough of the stuffing to fill 1 piece of pasta, and roll it like a sausage (or push it into the pasta tube). If using shells, use a spoon for this.

Lay the stuffed pasta in the casserole dishes, 1 layer deep. (You can stick a few on top if necessary.) Ladle enough sauce to cover the stuffed pasta. Cover with a generous sprinkling of Parmesan cheese.

Bake the stuffed pasta until the sauce is bubbling-about 20 minutes. Serve 2 per person for an entrée.

Serves 8.


Sep 012014

Today is Labor Day, the last day of Summer. Most families are celebrating by Swimming parties and grilling. Here is a great dish for the grill. It is also a great taligating dish. Just remember, to cut across the grain when slicing.

1 2 pound Flank Steak

1 cup dry Sherry or dry Red Wine

1/2 cup Soy Suace

1/4 cup packed Brown Sugar

2 tablespoons Creole Seasoning

2 tablespoons minced Garlic

2 tablespoons Tomato Paste

1 teaspoon freshly ground Black Pepper

Put the flank steak in a large self-sealing plastic bag. Whisk the sherry, soy sauce, brown sugar, Creole Seasoning, garlic, tomaot paste, and pepper in a medium bowl. Pour into the bag and seal. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours, and up to 24 hours.

Preheat a gall or charcoal grill.

Remove the steak from the marinade and pat it dry. Grill the steak for about 6 minutes on eacdh side for rare. While it cooks, pour the marinade into a small heavy saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to medium-low and simmer until reduced and thickened, about 30 minutes.

Transfer the steak to a cutting board and let stand for 5 minutes before slicing.

Cut the steak across the grain into thin diagonal slices, and serve with the sauce on the side.

Happy Labor Day!